PARIS (AFP) - Frankie Xie's label Jefen initiated the official ready-to-wear spring-summer 2007 season with a youthful vibe, followed by Balmain's seductive elegance and the enigmatic Martin Margiela.
Pretty hand-painted motifs of peach tree flowers hinted at the Chinese origins of the collection for Jefen, established in Beijing in 2000, but the look was largely Western-oriented.
"We use a lot of Chinese technology such as hand embroidery, Chinese fabrics or Chinese silk. The prints are Chinese designs," the 46-year-old designer said afterwards through an interpreter.
Cheeky hot pants, sometimes with braces, and baggy rolled-up dungarees were part of the Jefen look while layering over striped leggings was also key. Mannish wide trousers and flat white patent lace-ups offset girly bows and baby-doll dresses.
The wardrobe was targeted at Europeans of about 25-30 years-old, Xie said adding that he had chosen to call his collection "The Door" as a symbol of Chinese fashion opening to the world.
Frankie Xie for Jefen
© AFP/File Pierre Verdy
"Everyone now knows that China has the production but they don't know that it has the design," he said. Plans are afoot to open shops in Europe, in addition to about 20 shops he owns in China, he added.
China's Ambassador to France Zhao Jinjun attended the show, which followed the end of the Milan shows, and coincided with the start of China's week-long national day holiday.
Clinical white curtains covered the ornate Fine Arts School and staff donning their usual white coats provided the minimalist setting for Maison Martin Margiela's long slender silhouette of played-up shoulders.
Trousers were high-waisted, nipped and overly-long, the excess fabric gathered around the ankle, while the Belgian designer also left bare legs on show through slashes in long skirts and trousers.
He also toyed with asymmetry by using a single shoulder pad.
Stars were a leitmotiv while flesh-toned stretch jersey was used for leotard tops, perhaps incorporating a black bra. Starting off in silence but with a crescendo to heavy guitar, models trod the runway in plexiglass heels and transparent plastic.
Were perhaps the lightly-pleated 'angelic' wings at the back of a super-short white dress designer Christophe Decarnin's way of saying that the Balmain woman is both naughty and nice?
Frankie Xie (C)
© AFP/File Pierre Verdy
His panoply of gracefully high-thigh dresses seemed to say so.
Masterfully draping fabrics into a billowy back or soft pleating for the front, the ex-Paco Rabanne designer displayed a lightness of touch for his second season at the French fashion house.
He threw in thick silver embroidery for straps that snaked around the neck or shoulders. Fine gold chains and a thick smattering of studs covered a khaki dress while gold leafing glammed up a ripped T-shirt.
Added to that was lots of flesh with low scooped backs or slits, and miles of bare legs -- elongated by high, molded platform sandals -- for subtle seduction that was never vulgar.
Interestingly, Decarnin shod his models in chunky solid heels with three ankle straps for good measure. But the contrast with the glamorous and predominantly evening wear worked well.
Dresses were also the staple at Dice Kayek.
The length was similarly short but while Balmain's frocks were supple, Dice Kayek's were in stiff fabrics such as duchesse satin and defined cuts that often stood off the body.
Veteran Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto and Dutch design duo Viktor and Rolf are on Monday's line-up. Paris fashion week runs until October 8.
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